Pork, porcini and juniper berries: Rachel Roddy’s New Year’s Eve recipes

Pork with juniper and porcini There are two emporiums in Testaccio. One is ancient, and in ruins. The other is a shop, not much larger than an emperor-sized double bed, just off the main piazza. The ancient L’Emporio, built between 193 BC and 174 BC, was a river port where goods from all over the globe (Empire), notably olive oil from Hispania Baetica, Libya and Turkey; and durum wheat from North Africa, Egypt and Sicily, were docked, unloaded and moved into storage. Excavated remains of both the port and warehouses punctuate Testaccio nonchalantly; a colossal arch butting up against a 19th-century block of flats here, a section of quay there. The other L’Emporio – the bed-sized one – opened in 2007, and is a docking point for spices, herbs and teas. My son likes to point out that it is a smelly shop, and twitches his nose like a dog when we are near. This takes me back to my own smelly shop: a coffee roaster on Harpenden High Street run by two elderly sisters, who used to give young customers two malted milk biscuits in paper packets with cotton drawstring one of them had made. A gift I loved,… Read full this story

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