Author: Oleksii Shulha and Jeff Chapman Publish date: May 31, 2018 Social count: 0 0 SHARES In 2013 The International Olympic Committee (IOC) rejected a bid for the inclusion of climbing in the 2020 Olympics. But after being swept to the gutter, the sport cranked its way up onto the 2020 program, thanks to a new initiative that gave host city of Tokyo several additional slots to fill. The IOC then approved these sports on a provisional basis, awarding two medals to each (one for women and one for men). This posed a dilemma for the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), which was charged with devising a format for a single Olympic climbing event. Up to now, competition climbing has been broken into three separate disciplines—lead, boulder, and speed—with competitors tending to specialize in one or two and with speed the oft-ignored step child to the other two more “legitimate” disciplines, at least in the United States. Related: What … [Read more...] about Intro to Speed Climbing: Two Beginner Drills
Author: Climbing Staff Publish date: Apr 27, 2018 Social count: 120 120 SHARES Ten Sleep Climbing Festival Writing Competition Ten Sleep, Wyoming Festival date: June 30thbighornclimbers.org/festival/ Theme: How do you think globally and act locally as an outdoor enthusiast? Tell a story, write an essay. Be creative and genuine. Prize: Your story will be published in Climbing Magazine. You'll also get a 60-meter Boa Eco rope and five Bulletproof Quickdraws from Edelrid. International Climbers' Festival Writing Competition Lander, Wyoming Festival dates: Wednesday, July 11-15climbersfestival.org Theme: How do you think globally and act locally as an outdoor enthusiast? Tell a story, write an essay. Be creative and genuine. Prize: Your story will be published in Climbing Magazine and read out loud at the Climbers’ Festival keynote. You'll also get a 60-meter Boa Eco rope and five Bulletproof Quickdraws from Edelrid. More details coming soon. … [Read more...] about Writing Competition: Climbing Magazine and Edelrid Team Up With Wyoming Climbing Festivals
Organizers say it’s more important than ever to speak up for protecting the nation’s climbing resources. 0 SHARES Earlier this month, dozens of climbers convened on Capitol Hill to lobby members of Congress on public lands issues. Dubbed "Climb the Hill," the event attracted people from around the country as well as a number of organizations and coalitions, including the American Alpine Club and the Access Fund, in an effort to both persuade and inspire lawmakers to get on the side of preserving the nation’s recreational resources. Participants broke up into groups representing specific regions or states and pitched targeted messages to their respective representatives and senators. The climbers also met with land managers from the Park Service and other agencies. The event wrapped up with an evening reception in the Russell Senate Building which featured talks and presentations—delivered to a standing-room-only crowd—by Alex Honnold, Tommy … [Read more...] about Climb The Hill 2018: Climbers Take Their Message to Washington, D.C.
"But it's not real climbing..." Author: Eddie Fowke Publish date: May 21, 2018 Social count: 0 0 SHARES In the US where the dirtbag culture is still espoused as an ideal, comp climbing’s perceived glitz and glamor can seem like anathema. Comments like “No comp climber will ever send the Dawn Wall,” as I heard in Boulder, Colorado—just prior to comp climber Adam Ondra’s fast repeat of the VI 5.14d in November 2016—perpetuate the myth that comps, with their live streams, big crowds, and strange, gymnastic moves up giant blobs, have nothing to do with “real climbing.” Nonetheless, comp climbing has been around in a formal context since 1947, when the USSR, to celebrate its 30th anniversary, held an event on cliffs in the Kavkaz region. (It was a speed event based on the combined time it took a climber to climb up and down a 30-meter cliff [roped], and then complete a 30-meter traverse in both directions.) In the mid-1980s, … [Read more...] about How Competition Climbing is Pushing Standards for Outdoor Climbing
On sale today, featuring improved paper quality and a full redesign. Author: Climbing Staff Publish date: May 15, 2018 Social count: 126 126 SHARES Editor's Note Out with the old? Climbing and the inevitability of change In 1990, I belayed Boone Speed on the FA of I’ll Take Black, a 5.12c on the Malvado Wall at the Hell area in American Fork (AF), Utah. Speed was a founding father at AF and later became the first American to establish 5.14b. We were in the early years of sport climbing, when clipping bolts was still fresh and exciting, like opening the biggest box under the Christmas tree. Some of my first road trips, to areas like Smith Rock and AF, brought me face-to-face with the pioneers of that pivotal era. At AF, I watched as the rockstars—people like Speed, whom I’d only seen before in magazines—flung themselves at the steeps. A revolution was happening, and I feel lucky to have witnessed it. Of course, much has changed since then, and … [Read more...] about Climbing Magazine Print Preview: July 2018